After you pass steep rocky shoulder Piz Bernina joins the panorama. Route from Campo Moro begins at 1990m but it is not easy. It's also the only one situated in the Eastern Alps. Join me on this 5-day Bernina “Haute Route” unique hut-to-hut ski tour, crossing the Bernina Massif and climbing to the summit of Piz Palü (3901m), enjoying spectacular descents.. Bernina Group/Sondrio, Switzerland, Europe, Images The hut is positioned on the Fourcla Crast' Aguzza and is the highest known mountain hut in Lombardy. 1h 40 mins. Below it are steep cliffs and part of glacier squeezed between giant cliffs of Piz Scerscen and Piz Bernina. The Tour of the Bernina is suitable for first-time trekkers but the Alta Via needs some experience. From Punta Marinelli (m 3.181) one can admire the view over the entire Bernina mountain group. La Cima Marinelli e' un fantastico punto panoramico dal quale potremo ammirare tutta la vastita' e la verticalita' del Pizzo Bernina e dei suoi contrafforti quali Scerscen, Roseg e Zupo'. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m) Trio Fantastico: Piz Roseg (3937m), Piz Scerscen (3971m) & Piz Bernina (4049m), which is highest but least impressive from Italian side. Guidebook describing a 9-stage (119km) route around the Piz Bernina massif in the Alps on the Swiss-Italian border near St Moritz, and the 8-stage (94km) Alta Via Valmalenco exploring the Valmalenco valley, in the shadow of Monte Disgrazia. Marco e Rosa hut is high above and you are probably tired as you reach large crevasses near the end of huge couloir between Scerscen and Bernina. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Volo da Marco e Rosa con giro Bernina, Scerscen, Roseg, Gemelli e rifugio Marinelli. From Carate refuge trail ascends shortly to Forbici pass. After 12.6km road reaches picturesque Chiesa in Valmalenco (960m) village which is center of the valley. Piz Bernina is just little bit further to the right, hidden by a descending shoulder.Path shortly goes straight and then begins to descend. It begins on Campo Moro (1990m), high on the southern slopes of Bernina group, above Valmalenco valley in Italy. You reach Pontresina by train or car on the road no. Un altro classico e bellissimo percorso alpinistico: la salita al Rifugio Marco e Rosa (m 3.609) ed il ritorno attraverso il ghiacciaio delle Belleviste. Dále budete pokračovat na chatu Marinelli Bombardieri (2 813 m). In the right season, a wonderful trek also for families allows you to return to Campo Moro by following a different route that lets you have the experience of crossing a mini glacier. Segue le Guide Alpine della Valmalenco in ardite imprese di ghiaccio sul Bernina, la più famosa quella al “Canalone Folatti” sul Piz Argent, e quando è in città pensa a nuove idee dedicate all’alpinismo, per quegli anni (1930) decisamente innovative. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m): 1.30hSection 3) Rif. Return to Campo Moro via Bocchette di Caspoggio (m 2.983) and Rifugio Bignami – trekking + mountaineering stretch. Designed by Francesco Perego - Idea Sistemi | © Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri CAI sez Valtelinese P.IVA 00736680141, Normal uphill route from Campo Moro to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri. The ski touring ascent follows the normal route from Rifugio Marco e Rosa which can be reached via long and at times technical ascents from either from Italy or Switzerland. Piz Bernina : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. Few hundred meters after the junction towards the center of Chiesa there is another junction towards right. On the first day you have to reach Marco e Rosa hut (3609m) (reservation is obligatory), sleep over and climb the summit in the morning and return to the valley. Here is also a parking lot at the end of macadam road which ascends from Franscia. This route is the most popular Piz Bernina ascent. After crossing a bridge above huge crevasse track turns right and steeply ascends to the edge of the cliffs, almost 2 hours from the pass and 3 hours from Bombardieri hut.This is the place to remove crampons as steep climbing begins. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m): 1.30h. Above are mighty cliffs of Piz Argient (3945m) & Cresta Guzza (3869m) while in front are Piz Roseg (3937m), Piz Scerscen (3971m) & Piz Bernina (4049m) which is least impressive among these mighty peaks. Piz Scercen is a cliff inside of Bernina Gruppe. The Marco e Rosa Hut (Italian: Rifugio Marco e Rosa) is a high mountain refuge located on the southern slopes of the Piz Bernina in Italy.It lies adjacent to the Swiss border. Piz Argient is situated 2½ km north of Punta Marinelli… Because of two large dams and reservoirs Campo Moro is reachable by car. Center of the region is Sondrio town (300m), which lies deep below Bernina group in Valtellina valley. 3° day: Ritorno to Campo Moro via Passo Marinelli (m 3.120) and Alpe di Felleria, or via Bocchette di Caspoggio (m 2.983) and around Sasso Moro. Named after the tallest peak in the range, Piz Bernina, the Bernina Range is a rugged and heavily glaciated mountain range along the border of southeast Switzerland and Italy. Below the ridge there is very steep section to climb (II-III) which is around 10m high. Be careful not to start slide of the rocks. In some 20mins you’ll reach the descending ridge around which path turns right and levels. On one spot waterfall falls over the trail and you can't avoid nice cold shower. Also West ridge of Bernina is a fine climb but it requires another route to be climbed as an approach, either Eisnase of Scerscen (shortest and easiest) or traverse from Porta Roseg or all the way over Piz Roseg via Porta Roseg. From the parking on Campo Moro follow the signposts and descent towards the dam of the lower lake (asphalted road). Bernina, Overlooking The Beautiful Scerscen Valley Below While Having The Bernina On Its Shoulders. (51), Climber's Log Entries In 5 days, we will traverse the Bernina, surrounding the Piz Bernina (4,049m), the only 4000-meter peak of the Eastern Alps. This is relaxing section because traversing the glacier is almost horizontal. Change of altitude: 360m. No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. SE Flank via Piz Roseg Pitschen (SSE Ridge, SSOGrat auf dem Piz Roseg Pitschen). 4 ½ hours. The Piz Roseg has 3 summits, the main summit with 3937m, the secondary summit with 3920m called Schnekuppe situated north completely in Switzerland and Roseg Pitschen 3868 m on the border and ridge leading to the neighbouring Pit Scerrscen. Marinelli 2813m: 448m: 1375m: Accommodation: Rifugio Marinelli: Day 4: Rif. Marks ascent steeply, going over the muddy stream few times or by it. 2° day: ascension to Piz Bernina (m. 4.049) via Rifugio Marco e Rosa (m 3.597) and Canalone Cresta Guzza, return to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri. Marinelli Is At The Core Of The Standard Italian Route To The Ascent Of Piz. Il Canalone MARINELLI sulla sua parete Sud costituisce una linea terribilmente logica percorsa per … Guidebook describing a 9-stage (119km) route around the Piz Bernina massif in the Alps on the Swiss-Italian border near St Moritz, and the 8-stage (94km) Alta Via Valmalenco exploring the Valmalenco valley, in the shadow of Monte Disgrazia. Zoia (2021m), which stands on the panoramic shoulder between larch trees. Marco e Rosa (3609m): 4-5h, Section 4) Rif. Below them is icefall of Upper Scerscen glacier. From this spot is beautiful view back towards Campo Moro, lake and Piz Scalino (3323m) on the other side of the valley.Path for quite some time goes relatively straight, gaining almost no altitude, while it gets deeper into the valley. Una salita alpinistica classica delle Alpi: l’ascensione al Pizzo Bernina (m 4.049) lungo la via normale italiana. Si calcolano circa 5 ore per la salita alla cima e 4 ore per la discesa al rifugio. Itinerario sintetico: rifugio Marinelli (m 2814) - ghiacciaio dello Scerscen Superiore - bivacco Parravicini (m 3180) - pizzo Roseg per la cresta SO (m 3936) - discesa per la via normale (versante NO) - bivaccio Parravicini - rifugio Marinelli. Rarely can someone do it in a day because climb from Marco e Rosa hut to the summit is technical and takes quite some time. Piz Bernina 4049 m is a famous summit located in the namesake alpine range, playing a particularly important role, being the Easternmost alpine Fourthousander. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m) – Rif. Rif. It is the biggest refuge on the italian side of Bernina Group. Italian normal route to Piz Bernina from Campo Moro Section 2 between Rif.Carate Brianza (2636m) and Rif. (1), Section 1) Campo Moro (1990m) – Rif. Carate Brianza (2636m) – Rif. Just 2 minutes above the parking is Rif. Once you get over the dam marks descent in 3 sharp bends towards the meadows below the dam (10mins). Follow the signs towards Franscia. The other highlights are Eselsgrat and Nordostwand of Piz Roseg, Eisnase on Piz Scerscen and West face of Piz Bernina. Salita da Campo Moro, Vallone Scerscen e Alpe Musella 0342.511577 rifugiomarinellibombardieri@gmail.com Introduction. The Tour of the Bernina is suitable for first-time trekkers but the Alta Via needs some experience. Un’altra grande classica ascensione alpinistica nell’area: la salita al Piz Roseg (m 3.868), di 7 ore. Si devono calcolare altre 5 ore circa per la discesa al rifugio. After 35mins of ascending from the lake you’ll reach Bombardieri hut. Si calcolano circa 8 ore totali. Here you have to remove the crampons and begin to climb steep broken slope of granite blocks. Since it is at the end of the road it is not crowded so you don't need to make early reservation. Soon after the western entrance in the Sondrio there is junction (rotation) where signs point you towards left and Valmalenco valley. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m) – Rif. Carate Brianza (2636m): 2h, Section 2) Rif. East of the hut trail begins to ascend towards upper Scerscen glacier. Marco e Rosa (3609m)– Piz Bernina (4049m): 2-3h. The great northface stands out with its heavy ice balconies and hanging glaciers. Once on the peak it is time to put crampons again, knife sharp snow-ice ridge is in front of you with huge depths on both sides. Senza tema d’errore è forse una delle montagne più belle del gruppo del Bernina. After some 20mins of descending from the pass, path turns right into the valley behind Musella peak. Ice is mixed with fallen boulders so wait with crampons till you reach pure ice little bit further behind. Once you pass a stream which drains the lake that is on the right path begins to ascend. From Sondrio one takes the provinciale 15 with which you climb the Valmalenco until the town of Lanzada. First gradually by the stream on the right till it turns sharply left and ascends steeper in many bends. Some 40mins of very steep ascent is in front of you till you reach the summit rocks and cliffs. Once you reach the ridge trail turns left and continues to climb steeply towards the Italian Bernina peak (4020m) (II-III). Piz Bernina or Pizzo Bernina (Italian pronunciation: [ˈpittso berˈniːna]) is the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps, the highest point of the Bernina Range, and the highest peak in the Rhaetian Alps. In some 45mins you’ll reach western Marinelly pass which is eastern edge of the huge plateau which stretches below the peaks of Bernina group and on which Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore or upper Scerscen glacier lies. Zoia hut is great place to sleep over if you can't get here early in the morning to start the Bernina approach. Engadin - Poschiavo. Few meters above the hut is the edge of the glacier and place to put the crampons on and rope with your partners. Along the trail are fixed chains. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Marinelli-Bombardieri Rifugio lies on a large crag in upper Scerscen Valley, opposite the northern side of Cime di Musella on 2813m. Overview Piz Bernina 4049 m. Piz Bernina 4049 m is a famous summit located in the namesake alpine range, playing a particularly important role, being the Easternmost alpine Fourthousander. Carate Brianza (2636m) – Rif. Up in the cliffs you can see Marinelli Bombardieri hut (2813) while in front of you is Caspoggio glacier. Marinelli – P. Sella 3511 – I Gemelli 3501m – Roseg 2000: 700m: 1511m: Finish Location: Pontresina Altitude difference to Piz Bernina is more than 2000m. The Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri is situated in the Lanzada (SO) region in Valmalenco, in the high valley of the Scerscen, on the standard route to Piz Bernina. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Above are wild peaks of Cime di Musella (3088m). In the right season, another fantastic excursion also for families takes you to Marinelli point (variable upon verification of the conditions of ascent to the Rifugio). La parete sud del Piz ROSEG (3934m) passa spesso sotto gli occhi dei frequentatori della catena orobica. On the contrary it is tough and long. Return to Campo Moro via Vallone dello Scerscen and Alpe Musella. After an hour of almost horizontal glacier walking which includes crossing over the huge boulder tongue which covers the ice in the middle of glacier, track begins to ascend, ever more steeply. It requires mountaineering experience to reach it safely. Dislivello: m 800. Rock, AD; III+; 800m, 4-6h to Roseg Pitschen. 29 from Samedan. It rises 4,048.6 m (13,283 ft) and is located south of Pontresina and near the major Alpine resort of St. Moritz, in the Engadin valley with the massif partially in Italy. Without them this would be very exposed climbing with II and almost III (UIAA) degree on spots. 1940-08-20 First ascent Alfredo & Nello Corti & Martino Trippi, 1940-08-20. Following the markers, continue on a long traverse and, after curving towards the right, you come out into a broad valley where you can begin to glimpse the Marinelli Bombardieri mountain hut located on a … After 1.15h of climbing Marco e Rosa hut appears in front of you.From Campo Moro you'll probably need between 7-9h. The Dufourspitze is the highest peak of Monte Rosa, a huge ice-covered mountain massif in the Alps.Dufourspitze is the highest mountain peak of both Switzerland and the Pennine Alps and is also the second-highest mountain of the Alps and Western Europe, after Mont Blanc.It is located between Switzerland (Canton of Valais) and Italy (Piedmont and Aosta Valley). In the distance you can see Marco e Rosa hut, on the pass right of Piz Bernina. After you successfully tackle crevasses on upper Scerscen glacier there is final ferrata section that includes 300m vertical gain with steep rock climbing and few showers from waterfalls.Conclusion is that this is beautiful route which has everything. O Piz Roseg com 3 937 m de altura é uma montanha da Cordilheira Bernina situado cantão dos Grisões na Suíça.A fronteira coma Itália passa ligeiramente mais a Sul. At On-ice.it. Pizzo Bernina is the easternmost fourthousander in the western Alps: due to the way its formed, it leads into a massif comprised of long ridges that extend all the way to Palù at Piz Roseg. It is much tougher to descent and on few spots you have to rappel. Carate Brianza (2636m) – Rif. On the way you'll see some amazing scenery: cows on green pastures, giant granite mountains in full spectrum of colors, endless streams cascading from glaciers, deep crevasses and in the end you'll climb steep cliffs high above glacier.Route can be divided into 4 sections:Section 1) Campo Moro (1990m) – Rif.Carate Brianza (2636m): 2hSection 2) Rif. Piz Roseg is a big firn pyramide on a black rock massif. From Carate refuge trail ascends shortly to Forbici pass. First part will take you over steep slopes, made of broken boulders. Once you are safely on the other side there is only easy rock (or snow) ascent to the summit.How much time you'll need for this section depends on your skills and conditions. Dislivello: m 1.236. From Milano head towards north or Monza and Lecco towns on the shore of the Como Lake and further to Sondrio (136km). Valtellinese Guardian: Giancarlo Lenatti Open: end of June till 20th of September Size: 48 beds (+winter 50) Getting there: From Coax Hut (4 hours: Sella Glacier - Sella Pass - Superior Scerscen Glacier), Boval Hut (4'30 hours: Morteratsch Glacier), Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri (3 hours: Marinelli Pass - Superior Scerscen Glacier) or, from Francia via Campo Moro: 1 hour, from Francia via Alpe Foppa: 2'30-3 hours.Hut's phone: +39 (0)342-515370 Mobile (Hut's reservation phone): +39 (0)342515 370, View Italian normal route from Campo Moro Image Gallery - 51 Images. Below are pastures of Alpe Musella while in front you can see Rif.Carate, just below the pass which is high above. Before planning the trek please inform yourself on the conditions of the glacier, as it is sometimes not passable without mountaineering equipment. From it view literally explodes towards the north and few of the giants of Bernina group: Piz Roseg (3937m) & Piz Scerscen (3971m). The path continues up to the Forbici Saddle (2,660 m), where you can admire the peaks of the Bernina Group: Piz Scerscen (3,971 m), Piz Sella (3,511 m), Piz Roseg (3,920 m) and Piz Bernina (4,049 m). Na jihozápadě hřeben vytváří vrcholy Piz Scerscen (3 971 m), Piz Roseg (3 937 m), Piz Sella (3 511 m) a na jihovýchodě jsou to Cresta Guzza (3 869 m), Piz Argient (3 945 m), Piz Zupo (3 996 m), Bellavista (3 922 m), Piz Palü (3 921 m). Very attractive road winds in endless number of bends and tunnels through beautiful scenery as you gain 1700m from Sondrio. Estate Rifugio Marinelli, Punta Marinelli, via normale Bernina, Roseg, Palù, Giro delle Belleviste. Summit is just 400m above it but some people need 4-7 hours to return to the hut.Not even reaching Marco e Rosa hut is easy task. It is very popular because it's situated reachable altitude and you can choose many targets to go. This tour includes a dining stop in the famous Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri, built in 1880, and also known as the Scerscen Refuge from the valley in which it is located. This is how it is mostly done. From Roseg-Inn, you cross the river via a bridge and go along the river till the way goes up over the hangs. Sondrio is most easily reached from Milano. Many people also start here.From parking path turns left and ascends through the larch trees using steep shelf which cuts wild slopes of Sasso Moro (3108m). Pizzo Bernina is the easternmost fourthousander in the western Alps: due to the way its formed, it leads into a massif comprised of long ridges that extend all the way to Palù at Piz Roseg. Bernina Gruppe L’estate è “troppo” lunga : Piz Roseg, canalone Marinelli. Marinelli Bombardieri (2813m): 1.30h, Section 3) Rif. Canalone Marinelli al piz Roseg e Direttissima al Bernina di Carlo Mazzoleni Pazzesco: nel momento in cui si scrive siamo giunti all’ottantaduesimo giorno senza perturbazioni di rilievo in Valle. ... (2 662 m). You follow the way all the time and reach in 2 h the Tschiervahütte. Change of altitude: 900m. That is your direction. It will take you from greenery of Campo Moro to ever lasting snow and glaciers of Bernina group. 3 hours. This is only for experienced mountaineers who know how to climb III degree and use rope and climbers. - Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri 2818 m Situation: High Scerscen ValleyOwner: CAI Sez.ValtellineseGuardian: Giuseppe Della Rodolfa Guida Alpina UIAGMOpen: June-SeptemberSize: 100 personsGetting There: Campo Moro (Val Malenco) Path CAI n. 2Hut's phone: +39.0342.511577 Hut's reservation phone: +39.347.5200146Mail: rifugiomarinellibombardieri@gmail.com, Situation: South of Piz Bernina (normal route)Owner: CAI Sez. View towards south is beautiful, especially towards mighty Monte Disgrazia (3678m), which is more towards west. Marco e Rosa (3609m)– Piz Bernina (4049m): 2-3h. Piz Bernina is just little bit further to the right, hidden by a descending shoulder. Marco e Rosa – Piz Argent 3945m – Fuorcla Bellavista 3688m – Rif. From Campo Moro – Lanzada (So), 1990m – cross the dam and follow the directions to Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri via Rifugio Carate Brianza, route signs CAI n. 2. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. All Rights Reserved. That is where you are heading.From the pass there is small descent to the glacier. Marco e Rosa (3609m): 4-5hSection 4) Rif.